Wednesday, December 2, 2009

Musings: In the Piko

Koko and I set out walking this morning in the silvery bright path laid by an impossibly big moon that was so bright, my neighbor Andy said when he caught up to us, that you almost needed sunglasses.

And we stayed out long enough that when we returned, the sun was in our eyes, pink wisps had draped themselves over the gold-green summit of Makaleha and a small patch of mist rose from a damp nook in the pasture.

“What a glorious morning,” said Farmer Jerry, as he pulled over in the waning darkness for a few minutes to chat. He was on his way to a meeting to discuss how to fend off even more severe budget cuts expected for the Department of Agriculture and College of Tropical Ag. But despite his worry, he was buoyed by the beauty. “Just imagine what Ansel Adams would have done if he’d made it to Kauai.”

All the mountains were visible in the moonlight, and we could clearly see the bowl they formed, with us smack in the middle.

“The Hawaiians had it right,” Jerry said. “Wailua really is the piko. They had heiau going right up to the top of Waialeale. This is a sacred area. You really feel like you’re in the center of the universe here.”

Tis true. Kauai is the center of the universe, and Wailua is the center of that center.

Of course, Wailua isn’t the only sacred spot on Kauai. Last night I drove through the moonlight to Hanalei, where a meeting was being held about an innovative plan to use constructed wetlands to treat wastewater from the toilets at Ke`e, another extremely sacred area.

It seems something needs to be done, as with the current system, secondary effluent — sewage without the chunks — is now running over burials, the foundation of what is believed to be an alii’s house and other cultural sites.

My friends Ka`imi and Ka`ili, who farm the adjacent taro lands and have hopes of restoring the fish pond that could, in a worst case scenario, have semi-treated wastewater flow into it, were also there. They have been involved in the issue for three years, and the state has been forced to slowly bend its will — aided, in part, by the formal intervention filed by Ka`imi and other residents – in response to concerns voiced by the community.

Ka`imi and Ka`ili don’t like the current situation, but they aren’t thrilled with the plans for resolving it, either. They see it as undermining the cultural integrity of Kee, which they and others are working hard to restore.

“There you are, trying to do the protocol, and there’s a big holding tank full of shit behind barbed wire,” Ka`imi said.

They’d like to see the state “take the shit out of there,” Ka`imi said.

But what they’d really like is for the state to address the underlying issue: the extremely intense use of the area by tourists.

Because, quite frankly, tourists are the primary cause of all the shit that needs to be dealt with. Ke`e is one of — if not the most — heavily visited spots on the island. Most tourists go there for the snorkeling, sunsets and access to Kalalau Trail, and they have little understanding about the area’s cultural significance.

Recreation, not culture, has become the focus at Ke`e, and that’s what really rankles.

“It’s all being done to accommodate the tourists,” Ka`imi said of the wastewater project.

Yes, we all know that tourists bring the almighty Euros and yen and dollars. But does that mean that Hawaiians should be forced to choose between whether they want to have sewage flowing over their burials, or possibly into their loi and fish ponds?

How many times must we push them into that tight, unyielding space between a pohaku and a hard place, and then ridicule them for choosing their culture or denigrate them for slowing down “progress” if they resist?

Can’t we have some places where tourists just don’t go, or are only allowed in small numbers? Instead, the state is looking at how to bring in more, more, more.

Back at Wailua, a similar issue is playing out with plans to build the Path along the beach. It’s all about recreation, and Hawaiians who don't like that are being ridiculed for speaking up on behalf of their culture and denigrated for slowing down what some perceive as progress.

Yes, some local residents use the Path, just as some local residents use Ke`e — if they can find a parking space and bear the crowds. But let’s not pretend that the Path won’t be billed as another tourist attraction. Heck, it already is.

So why should Wailua, which is already heavily used, be compromised even more to accommodate recreation and the tourists especially when some Hawaiians object to it?

The state’s master plan for Ke`e also called for a bike path, but as Ka`ili said, “we crossed that right off the map. We don’t want it, and we don’t need it.”

30 comments:

Anonymous said...

Carrying capacity studies were needed a long time ago. No public bathrooms along the way either, so more people need to use the toilet when they get to the end of the road. Maybe a public bathroom could be constructed along with the wetland in another place too before Ha'ena .or let everyone know
PB4Ugo

Anonymous said...

They don't even have a viable definition for "Carrying Capacity" to even begin a study! For starters let's answer this question; "What is the maximum number of Hawaiians living on Kauai before European contact?", and use the answer as the carrying capacity of Kauai until someone can demonstrate otherwise. I believe the answer is around 50,000 and we are over that already.

Anonymous said...

"especially when some Hawaiians object to it?"

--note: some Hawaiians support it.

what if more Hawaiians support it than object to it?

Anonymous said...

There is a toilet at the county park by the dry cave.

Anonymous said...

some Hawaiians support it.

what if more Hawaiians support it than object to it?


You choose the Hawaiians who happen to support your opinion and you make them your token Hawaiian, and you try to ignore the existence of the ones who don't support your opinion.

Anonymous said...

Can anyone name the Hawaiians that support the path over the burial ground at Wailua Beach? I have yet to find one. Please let me know. Thank you.

Anonymous said...

Uh, let's see. The Mayor.

Anonymous said...

the path over the burial ground at Wailua Beach

OHA says the burial ground is mauka of Wailua Beach. The antogonism about the path on the beach is that the "sands" are "sacred," not that there are burials there.

Doug said...

Re: the "piko" concept. Mathematicians and physiciists would agree that Waieleele is A center of the universe, because an infinite space has an infinite number of centers.

I now return you folks to your non-math-geek discussions. Aloha.

Anonymous said...

I heard a Hawaiian guy call in to Ron Willey's show recently to say that he thought opposing the path for cultural reasons was unreasonable and that culturally, menstruating women would be banned from that beach.

Dawson said...

"I heard a Hawaiian guy call in to Ron Willey's show recently to say that he thought opposing the path for cultural reasons was unreasonable and that culturally, menstruating women would be banned from that beach."

Would be banned today -- or would have been banned in the past?

Anonymous said...

Uh, let's see. The Mayor.
Yep. Unfortunately.

Think itʻs bad now, thanks to Lingle, not only will there be the usual asswipes from california but a whole new kind of speculator...and lots and lots of them. Chinese.

its-flied-lice-u-plick

Anonymous said...

Think itʻs bad now, thanks to Lingle, not only will there be the usual asswipes from california but a whole new kind of speculator...and lots and lots of them. Chinese.

its-flied-lice-u-plick


Another white guy opposed to the path.

Anonymous said...

What the fk did that have to do with the ʻpathʻ?
Are all of you that disconnected and myopic?

Anonymous said...

What the fk did that have to do with the ʻpathʻ? Are all of you that disconnected and myopic?

Notice you didn't deny it.

Lehua said...

Anonymous said...
I heard a Hawaiian guy call in to Ron Willey's show recently to say that he thought opposing the path for cultural reasons was unreasonable and that culturally, menstruating women would be banned from that beach.

If that is so, Hawaiian guy needs to get a check on his culture. BTW, it IS a kapu that women on their menstrual cycle DO NOT access the water - ocean or freshwater during their monthly period. It's all about respect and not defiling the natural resources. Please get the facts straight. There's so much to learn about Hawaiian culture and values.

Lehua said...

Sorry, I forgot to post that I am Hawaiian,am connected and aware of our native culture and traditions. Oh, and a female at that! So no speculations or guesses here.

Anonymous said...

ron wiley also named sabra kauka as a path on the sands supporter. she signed on to a letter drafted by thomas noyes and crew as well. big deal if there are some who say OK because there are some who live in the area and have relations with the area and are trying to preserve as much as can.
it is sad that haole interests will pit hawaaiians against each other to get what they want. sad indeed but that it what ron wiley and tim bynum would have you believe that its OK because they have some hawaiian backers.
i wonder if sabra made it to the vigil. it would be good to ask her about her rationale to pick the beach over the canehaul rd for the path.
i have a feeling that if she was asked directly her reponse maybe different than how the kauai path folks are portraying the kanaka support for a beach path. mayor BC caved;maybe he can reconsider if there is significant pressure to bare.

Anonymous said...

bring more solutions instead of more barriers to this issue of the path.

Looking41NewMayor said...

Sabra Kauka is firmly in support of the path of the beach. Don't blame the haole interests for taking advantage or for her getting sucked in. This was her concious choice. Sad. She and others can stand with our "Hawaiian" Mayor who yes, caved in so hard its spineless. All I can say is SHAME.

Looking41NewMayor in Lihue

This Hawaiian is standing up for the kupuna. EIS! Move the path!

MKW

Anonymous said...

i bet there is a way to blame this on christians and sugar people


dwps

Anonymous said...

Ron Wiley and Tim Bynum do NOT like Hawaiians.
Remember that in the future next time you hear the saccharin sweet bs.

They try act but theyʻre so stupid they think everyone else is too.

Steve (whathisname) from the KKCR oldies show is another one.

Garden variety rascists.

Anonymous said...

Ron Wiley and Tim Bynum do NOT like Hawaiians.

You're such a know-nothing jerk.

Anonymous said...

it is sad that haole interests will pit hawaaiians against each other to get what they want.

O please. that is exactly what the anti-path haoles are doing. The idea that "Hawaiians" have a monolithic identity of interest is racist. Anti-development white hippies trade in that racism day in and day out.

Anonymous said...

"The idea that "Hawaiians" have a monolithic identity of interest is racist. Anti-development white hippies trade in that racism day in and day out"

Including the host

Anonymous said...

"The idea that "Hawaiians" have a monolithic identity of interest is racist. Anti-development white hippies trade in that racism day in and day out."

-- strong, cutting comment. compliments


dwps

Dawson said...

"Anti-development white hippies trade in that racism day in and day out."

Greed-mongering Western land grabbers were trading on it far earlier, and continue to do so.

Voracious developers have devoured the planet and its people for long enough. Time for a change.

Anonymous said...

And that time is not a comin' any time soon.

Anonymous said...

"People talkin' but they just don't know" JH
Ansel Adams came to and shot the Islands in 1948, including Kauai. A small point, but it does speak to the sound of so many engines being gunned while the car is in park.

Punohu's Politics,Environment and Culture said...

December 2, 2009 1:06 PM anonymous comment

Please do a more thorough history check before you begin quoting numbers.

My Uncle, Palu Hanohano Pa, who has since passed away was born and raised in Kalalau valley.

There were thousands of Hawaiians who lived in the Na pali area, and traversed it by a series of swinging ladders. Only they knew how to use them.

I will steer you towards a book, called "Then there Were None". This little book accurately documents in simple language the genocide of the Hawaiian people, and gives accurate guestimates for how many Native Hawaiians exhisted in this state prior to Western Contact.

The numbers for Kauai are quite high, due to Kauais ability to grow food, and have abundant water and rescources. The numbers run anywhere to 250,000 to 450,000

To state that there were only 50,000 people on Kaua'i is ludicrous.

The carrying capacity of this island was high, because a system was in place that made the best use of the land, instituted kapus at certain times of the day, month and year to prevent depleting any one resource. Another reason, was because Kauai was unique among the islands in that it had more abundant sources of water and birds that the other islands.

This allowed Kauai to produce more kalo, and 'uala, and have a more abundant amount of food. Kaua'i was also wealthy because there were more birds here, which allowed the making of Kihei, which were highly prized by all on the islands and was also used as currency. This could be exchanged as gifts to solidify alliances and keep peace. Kaua'i had finer lauhala matting, and also makaloa matting to make better sails. The wood was more abundant for canoes here

The main thing that kept Kauais population so high was that Kauai was very difficult to conquer, and warfare here was rather rare. Kauai cheifesses and cheifs tussled among themselves, but it was very unusual for threats to come from other islands and they usually did not get much past the beach when they landed.

Because of Kauais cliffs, canoe breakers and slings were utilized to destroy the canoes that might attempt to land, and because the ways to actually set foot on Kauai were well guarded and narrow outsiders were easily defeated.

Kauai historicaly had almost one thousand years of relative peace and prosperity before the time of Kamehameha.

So, next time do a bit more research. The reason why we are so unsustainable today even with our modern conveniences is because all of the land is no longer in productiion, there are no kapus on harvesting really, and the Hawaiian calender is not followed, and people no longer live from the mountains to the sea, but are prevented from moving freely on their own island.
The population lives in a small ribbon around the coast instead of all over it the way the people did before.

My Uncle told me these things, and I have never forgotten them. He did give me permission to pass this knowledge along. Lucky you to see it here.